Baan Tong Luang Village – Long neck and 5 Hill tribes in Chiang Mai

Update – September 2022 – Baan Tong Luang village has been closed since the spread if the global covid-19 pandemic. Unfortunately without any tourists, it was not sustainable to keep the village open. The Kayan Long neck villagers and hill tribes at Baan Tong Luang had to move and find alternative ways to earn a living.

There are a couple of smaller Kayan Long Neck villages which have opened just outside Chiang Mai city, but these are very small  compared to what Baan Tong Luang was.

In early 2021, we were fortunate enough to come across the former manager of Baan Tong Luang village, and one of the Kayan Long Neck women (Masu). Masu was lucky enough to maintain her refugee status in Thailand (having fled Myanmar). Although she was permitted to stay in the country she had no means to pay for essentials. And so in agreement and collaboration with her and her family,  we have help them set up a homestay. This enables her to stay in Thailand, and earn a living to pay for essentials for her family. You can read about this homestay here, if you are interested in visiting her village and homestay please contact us. 

Baan Tong Luang Village (Pre-Covid)

Baan Tong Luang village was originally set up to help the hill tribe families of workers at neighbouring Mae Sa Elephant Camp. It is a modelled village that showcases the different hill tribe groups of northern Thailand including the; Karen, Hmong, Mien/Yao, Lahu, Lisu and the Kayan Long Neck.

Located in the lush countryside of Mae Rim, around 30 minutes drive north of Chiang Mai city. The picturesque setting offers a glimpse into how the hill tribes once used to live and work in the remote and rural highland areas of Thailand.

The village has traditional houses (mostly bamboo stilt structures). In front of each house, are stalls where the villagers sell their handicrafts and souvenirs. Some of these are factory produced, but a few items such as the cotton shawls or wooden carvings are handmade by the villagers. The sale of these handicrafts is an important source of income for the villagers, so we always encourage visitors to buy a souvenir or two. The villagers also demonstrate traditional ways of life, such as cotton weaving and rice winnowing.

Rice fields at BaanTong Luang village

What to Expect

Many online reviews cite Baan Tong Luang as a ‘tourist trap’ or a ‘commercialised village’. Baan Tong Luang does not pretend to be a real village, and is perfectly open about what it is. It does not aim to deceive tourists in any way. Most disgruntled tourists that visit there, are likely to have been taken there unknowingly as part of a package tour. It might feel ‘commercialised’ , because the villagers sell souvenirs and handicrafts, but it’s important to know that they don’t harass or pressure you to buy anything. They sit quietly behind their stalls.  The truth is, that selling souvenirs is an important source of income for them. So buying something from them, is the best way to ensure your visit supports them directly and sustainably.

Cotton Weaving @ Baan Tong Luang village

The Long Neck Tribe at Baan Tong Luang

For many tourists, one of the main reasons for visiting Baan Tong Luang is to see the Kayan Long Neck tribe. Long Neck tourism is a whole other debate (which you can read more about here).  There are no ‘real’ long neck villages in Thailand, as this tribe is not native to Thailand. The Kayan Long Neck are refugees in Thailand, who have fled conflict in their native country of Myanmar. So the only way to see the Long Neck women in Thailand, is to visit them in a tourist village such as Baan Tong Luang in Chiang Mai, or Huay Ser Tao / Huay Bpu Keng village in Mae Hong Son.

Long neck hill tribe @ Baan Tong Luang Village

How to visit Baan Tong Luang

If you are clear about what Baan Tong Luang village really is, and you know what to expect before visting, then you shouldn’t end up feeling disappointed.

The truth is… how you visit Baan Tong Luang village will determine whether you have a positive and educational experience, rather than a ‘human zoo’ type experience. If you go with good guide, who can facilitate dialogue or friendly interactions between you and the villagers, then the experience immediately feels comfortable and insightful. If you visit independently, or a guide merely accompanys you, then the visit is not going to be very meaningful.

Most of the travellers we take to Baan Tong Luang, say that it was worth the visit, because they got to see a variety of different hill tribes and it gave them an idea of how they used to live. It’s also a great place for photo opportunities, as the villagers are happy for you to take pictures of them in their beautiful tradtional dress. If you visit with the right guide, taking pictures of them won’t feel awkward.

We recommend combining a visit to Baan Tong Luang with ‘authentic’ villages, so that you can get a feel for both types of villages. It will give you a better appreciation for each type, and a deeper understanding about the importance of tourism for hill tribes. Our 1 Day Hilltribe Tour offers the option to visit Baan Tong Luang, and then we continue onwards to authentic hill tribe villages (not set up for tourists).

What is the Baan Tong Luang Village Price ?

At the time of writing, the Baan Tong Luang village entrance fee is 500bt per adult.

Conclusion

Some people have mixed feelings about visiting a ‘human zoo’, but the villagers are there of their own free will and are happy for you visit… and even happier if you buy a handicraft or two from them ! So any uncomfortable feelings might be one-sided.

Useful Links

Baan Tong Luang Village official website

Forget the Boycott – Come visit us (Asia Times article)